Portable power stations go by many names – solar generator, portable power station, mobile power supply – and every manufacturer frames their specs differently. This guide cuts through the noise and explains what actually matters.
# What Is a Portable Power Station?
A portable power station is a large rechargeable battery with a real 230 V AC outlet. That means you can run actual household appliances – not just USB devices.
That’s what separates it from a power bank: a power bank charges phones and laptops over USB. A power station delivers mains-equivalent power and can keep a fridge, lights, a medical device or a router running.
And from a petrol generator: a generator runs as long as you have fuel, but produces exhaust fumes and noise and can’t be used indoors. A power station is silent, emission-free and can be recharged by solar.
# LFP Only – Here’s Why
There are two battery types on the market: LFP (LiFePO₄) and NMC (Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt).
For preparedness and emergency power, we only recommend LFP devices – for three reasons:
Lifespan: NMC manages 500–1000 charge cycles. LFP delivers 3000–6000 cycles. If you buy a power station and store it for emergencies, you want it to still work in five years. LFP makes that reliable. NMC doesn’t.
Safety: LFP is thermally stable and essentially fire-safe. NMC cells carry a thermal runaway risk if overcharged or physically damaged. For a device sitting in your living room or cellar, that’s a meaningful difference.
Cold tolerance: LFP handles low temperatures better. If you store the unit in a garage or basement, you’ll benefit from this.
# How Much Capacity Do I Need?
Capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh). The key formula: watts × hours = watt-hours.
A fridge drawing 100 W running for 10 hours = 1000 Wh. A router drawing 10 W running for 100 hours = 1000 Wh.
# Typical Power Consumption
| Device | Power draw | 24h need |
|---|---|---|
| Wi-Fi router | ~10 W | ~240 Wh |
| LED lamp | ~10 W | ~240 Wh |
| Smartphone charging | ~15 Wh/charge | ~30–60 Wh/day |
| Laptop | ~60 W | ~480 Wh (8h) |
| Fridge (A++) | ~80–120 W | ~800–1200 Wh |
| Small freezer box (10 L) | ~45 W | ~400 Wh |
| CPAP device | ~30–60 W | ~240–480 Wh |
| Mini oven | 1000–1500 W | → not suitable |
| Kettle | 2000 W | → very briefly possible |
What this means in practice:
- Router + lights + phones: ~500–700 Wh/day → a 2000 Wh station lasts 3 days
- + fridge: ~1400–1800 Wh/day → a 2000 Wh station lasts 1–1.5 days
- Fridge continuously: needs solar recharging or very large capacity
For most households, the 2000 Wh class is the sensible entry point for real emergency power. Anything smaller is for camping and essentials – not 72-hour blackout coverage.
# AC Output: The Second Key Number
Alongside capacity (Wh), the continuous AC output (W) determines what you can connect.
Simple rule: the device must draw fewer watts than the power station can continuously deliver.
| Output class | Suitable for |
|---|---|
| 1800 W | Fridge, laptop, lights, router, small kitchen appliances |
| 2200–2600 W | + weak coffee machine, microwave (briefly), small fan heater |
| 3000 W+ | + single induction hob, power tools |
Peak (surge) power: Many devices – especially motors, compressors, fridges – need 2–3× their rated wattage for a fraction of a second at startup. A fridge drawing 100 W in operation might demand 400–600 W to start. Always check the peak output of the power station against the startup demands of your appliances.
X-Boost / Power Lifting: Some manufacturers (EcoFlow, BLUETTI) offer technologies that effectively increase usable output by adjusting frequency. This works well for many devices but not all. Don’t rely on it exclusively.
# Solar: Useful or Gimmick?
For a short blackout (1–2 days), solar is largely irrelevant – the station has enough stored capacity.
For a longer outage or extended camping, solar matters: a 200 W panel delivers 4–6 effective sun hours per day in Central Europe in summer. That’s 800–1200 Wh/day – enough to keep router, lights and phones running indefinitely, or buffer the fridge for several hours daily.
When buying, check the maximum solar input of the station:
- 800 W: good for 2×200 W panels in series
- 1000–1200 W: allows 3–4 panels → significantly faster recharging
All four devices in our power station comparison support solar charging.
# What a Power Station Can’t Do
Clear limits – to avoid wrong expectations:
Electric hob, electric oven, infrared heater: 2000–4000 W continuous load. Empties a 2000 Wh station in 30–60 minutes. Not practical.
Hot water boiler, instantaneous water heater: Also 2000+ W. Not suitable.
Central heating / heat pump: Compressor and pump together often require 3000–5000 W startup power. Outside most station specs.
Days of continuous use without solar: A 2000 Wh station drawing 1000 Wh/day lasts 2 days. Without recharging, that’s it.
A power station is not a replacement for a generator in a severe long-term outage. It’s a buffer for 1–3 days and a reliable companion for camping and mobile use.
# The Right Class for You
Camping / outdoor use: Our powerbank comparison covers the up-to-300 Wh segment. For camping with a cooler and more, the 2000 Wh class is worth the step up.
Blackout preparedness for essentials (router, lights, devices): 2000 Wh + solar compatibility. That’s the class we cover in the comparison.
Critical appliances (fridge continuously, medical devices): 2000 Wh + solar. With a 400 W solar setup you can cover daytime consumption almost continuously in summer.
Whole-home backup: 4000+ Wh and 3000 W AC. These are the expandable systems (EcoFlow DELTA 3 Max to 4 kWh, Anker SOLIX C2000 Gen 2 to 4 kWh, etc.).
The four devices in the comparison cost between ~€740 and ~€1180 and cover all the preparedness scenarios above. Which one fits best is in the Power Station Comparison 2026.
# Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a power station indoors?
Yes – this is one of the biggest advantages over a petrol generator. Power stations are silent and produce no exhaust. They can be used freely in living rooms, basements or garages. There are no restrictions when charging via solar or mains.
How long does a power station keep in storage?
LFP batteries lose very little capacity when idle – about 1–3% per month. Stored at 50–60% charge in a cool environment (15–25°C), an LFP power station stays in good condition for 5–10 years. Charging it once a year and returning it to 50–60% is good practice.
Can I run a normal fridge?
Yes, as long as the power station can handle the fridge’s startup surge. A typical fridge draws 80–150 W in operation but may demand 400–600 W at startup. All devices in the comparison (2200–2600 W continuous, 3900–4800 W peak) handle this without issue.
What's the difference between Wh and W?
Watts (W) is power – how much electricity a device draws at any moment. Watt-hours (Wh) is energy – how much electricity is stored in total. A 2000 Wh power station can deliver 2000 W for one hour, or 200 W for 10 hours, or 100 W for 20 hours.
Is it worth buying solar panels with the station?
For pure blackout preparedness (short outages): not essential. For longer outages or regular camping use: yes, very much so. A 200 W panel costs €150–250 and delivers 800–1200 Wh per day in summer in Central Europe. That dramatically extends the station’s autonomy.
What does UPS function mean?
UPS stands for Uninterruptible Power Supply. On devices with UPS function, the station switches to battery in under 30 ms (sometimes under 10 ms) when mains power fails. Sensitive devices like routers, NAS drives or medical equipment won’t notice the outage. Not all power stations offer this – it’s a selection criterion in the comparison.
